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    The young chef-author of a new tell-all memoir about four-star restaurants is being accused of cooking his facts. The Seasoning of a Chef: My Journey From Diner to Ducasse and Beyond was written by Doug Psaltis, 31, and his twin brother Michael. Alain Ducasse’s spokesperson says that many of the book’s most colorful anecdotes never occurred: Ducasse never threw a chair during a meeting at the Essex House, and he was not unrecognized and locked out of Mix by staff. Jeffrey Chodorow’s name never appears, but he was quick to dismiss the chapters on Mix by noting that he got the number of seats in the restaurant wrong (there are “90, not 65”). And don’t get Anthony Bourdain started. “God knows, I’ve talked a lot of shit over the years about other chefs,” he says. But “Psaltis has done his subjects, his readers, and himself a disservice by painting himself as being without fault.” Chodorow says, “The sad fact is, the only reason that anyone was interested in this book is because of the opportunity Alain Ducasse gave him. I find the lack of respect shown to him and his organization, let alone to ours, unfortunate, but not that surprising, knowing Mr. Psaltis.” Michael Psaltis responds, “There are criticisms, but how could you paint a more loving portrait of a man? Doug considers Ducasse his mentor.”

    Originally published in New York Magazine.

     

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    "Why the French don't suck" is something I can answer, but I'd rather watch Tony Bourdain enumerate the reasons as he traipses through the City of Lights, speaking Franglais, smoking Gauloises, and drinking absinthe. Now that's entertainment. This is the subject of the first episode of "No Reservations," the bad-boy chef and scribe's latest television offering. The 13-episode series premieres tonight at 10 p.m. on the Travel Channel (check local listings). Be warned that this is not a cooking show, though the early-morning visit with boulanger Pascal Pinot will induce serious pain au chocolat cravings. Nor is it a classic travel program; there's no litany of phone numbers and addresses at the end of the show. On the contrary, his oft-repeated mantra is "put down the guidebook and get off the tour bus," so that you can "experience life like the locals." Instead, "No Reservations" is like taking a vacation with a very inquisitive cook, following his nose to the old-school bistro, having breakfast in a café, and recuperating in the hotel room from a late-night absinthe debauch (greatly enhanced by the special effects). If that sounds appealing, this is the show for you. It's all Bourdain, all the time, up close and personal. And while the editing and production values are seamless and first-rate, Tony himself is virtually unedited, as evidenced by the frequent bleeps, cracks on Johnny Depp, Joan Rivers, and Rocco DiSpirito, and the late airtime. Bourdain has taken culinary travel to the edge. <em>travel.discovery.com</em></p>

    <p>Originally posted on Epicurious.com.</p>

  • Images-2In 2005 Leuzzi launched Snack, a personal weblog on global food and restaurant trends, travel insights, industry news, book reviews, with a touch of gossip. While there has been anti-blog backlash from the industry, Snack has been embraced

    "Jennifer Leuzzi is one of the best connected, hooked-in bloggers in the foodie jungle–and Snack is compulsory reading. Of course I'll take these words back if she ever writes shit about me." — Anthony Bourdain

    “If Coco Chanel married Escoffier and you threw in a little rock and roll, the result would be Jennifer Leuzzi—informed, beautiful, and she can do mise-en-place like nobody’s business.” — Peter Kaminsky, Writer

    “The peripatetic Jennifer Leuzzi uncovers today’s and tomorrow’s dining gossip like a sleuth on caffeine.  She has a stealth-like way of gathering inside information from chefs and restaurateurs that is the journalist version of one of those magicians who removes your watch without your even knowing it.” — Danny Meyer, Union Square Hospitality Group

    Snack’s coverage beyond the culinary (the unsnack category) to include celebrity happenings and musings about contemporary culture. The response has been a positive force expanding the reach of Snack to readers beyond foodies. Recent new formats include snack60 (1–minute video clips via Snack’s YouTube channel), a Snack widget to download, and email subscriptions.

    Her blog has become one of the online authorities in the industry, as noted by the Financial Times of London in 2007:

    “Fortunately, its [The New York Times] power is now being eroded by the auld enemy of old media – the internet. Blogs such as Eater, Restaurant Girl and Snack now visit and opine on new Manhattan restaurants before Mr. Bruni, who also writes for a New York Times blog, has eaten his way through enough meals to make his judgment. I know this is so because I read about it in the New York Times.”

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    I was the center of attention backstage at the Tuleh fashion show on Sunday. (As foodies, you may not know this, but it's Fashion Week. All the top American designers are showing their fall 2005 collections under the tents at Bryant Park in NYC.) People crowded around me and took my picture. Why all the fuss? Let's face it, I'm not some teenage 5-foot-10-inch Eastern European beauty. No, the source of my mysterious attraction was… my panini. That's right, I was working the panini machine, cranking out toasty Nutella and peanut butter sandwiches. "Oh, Nutella!" a model squealed while jumping up and down and clapping. "I love this! I eat it every morning!"

    I should explain. Like any live performance, fashion shows have craft services. After all, someone has to feed the almost 200-strong army of stylists, dressers, roadies, and models (yes, contrary to popular belief, fashion people do eat). Oliver Schwaner-Albright's Oliver Cooking first catered the Tuleh show in 2004. He's known Tuleh's studio manager, Delphine Rubin, since childhood and is friends with the designer, Bryan Bradley. He really does the craft service for fun. His girlfriend, Christine, came up with the Nutella panini idea. It was a huge success. So much so that people were sneaking in from other shows to nosh. This year, he invited me to witness the phenomenon, and I have to say I was impressed. One staffer revealed she'd bought a sandwich press after the last show to make them at home; hairstylists talked about looking forward to Tuleh every year… for the food. Reportedly, the usual fashion buffet is cold cuts and coffee. "I try to do good, fresh food that people will really want to eat," Oliver said. And who wouldn't love a Boucheron cheese, asparagus, and truffle oil panini? Best of all, even us regular folks can engage his services. E-mail olivercooking@earthlink.net.

    Originally posted on The Corner Table on Epicurious.com